Kaiserbummel & Batzenhäusl August 30, 2010

Kaiserbummel – the Kaiser’s Birthday

On August 17^th, 2010, the Kaiser would have celebrated his 180^th Birthday. As every year, Bad Ischl was decked out in 2.5 km of red carpet and welcomed locals and tourists to celebrate and sample specialities of the region. The Kaiser nostalgia was out in full force, with a few people in fancy dress as the Kaiser and Princess Sissi. For the most part, the locals were dressed in the traditional dress and enjoyed the music, food and festivities. The local Church holds a mass in memory of the late Kaiser, with participants dressed in period costume.

In addition, there were local bands with folk music as well as jazz bands and other kinds of music. The food stalls provided the usual fare of schnitzel, sausages, sauerkraut, strudel and were really delicious! The Kaiser villa hosts a private party for young, fashionable people every year and it is given over to a clubbing event.

Batzenhäusl, St Gilgen – a new culinary discovery

Batzenhäusl is a former toll-house located on the edge of St Gilgen. The building is very atmospheric and you can almost feel the history in this 400 year old building. The food is high quality and the price does not break the bank. We had an excellent 2 course meal with wine for ca. 20 Euros / person. The style of food is lighter than most Austrian restaurants and the menu is imaginative and the food well presented. I would not advise sitting outside in the Summer as it is on the main road.

To reach it from Bad Goisern, drive direction Bad Ischl and then onto St Gilgen, on arrival at St Gilgen drive direction Mondsee and you will see the restaurant opposite a small yellow castle on the mountain opposite. Reservations are recommended.

http://www.batzenhäusl.at/

Batzenhäusl OG

Winkl 10

A 5340 St. Gilgen

Tel.: + 43 6227 23 56

Gmunden & Alt Aussee August 10, 2010

Gmunden is a charming excursion from Haus Mirabelle, ca. 40 minutes drive of 50 minutes in the train. (If you decide to go by train, you can take the tram from directly outside the station at Gmunden into the centre of the town). Gmunden is quaint and delightful – it is like going back in time.  Its main feature is a small marina and Gmunden is famous for the Gmundener ceramics, which has distinctive green and white colourings. Gmunden is one of the most scenic places which I have visited in the Salzkammergut.  In terms of sightseeing, there is not an awful lot to see, but take in the view at the harbour and enjoy one of the excellent cafes along the pier.

Closer to Bad Goisern, are the villages of Bad Aussee and Alt Aussee. One drives direction Lake Hallstatt to reach both of these places. Though Bad Aussee and Altsee are only about 30-40 minutes drive from Haus Mirabelle, the surrounding countryside already looks quite different from the Salzkammergut. Bad Aussee and Altsee are both in the county of Styria or ‘Steiermark’. Styria is well-regarded in Austria for its natural beauty, cuisine and folklore traditions. It is considered to be the ‘Austrian Tuscany’.

Delicious food and musical entertainment can be had at the Gasthaus Loser in Alt Aussee. The food is highly recommended, with traditionally Austrian food. There is smoked trout on Monday and Tuesday nights, with folk music played on Thursday nights. Even the landlord joins the local band in singing and plays the whistle! Locals dress up in traditional clothes, known as ‘Trachtenmode’ and it is quite a spectacle. Booking is essential and Gasthaus Loser provides a good insight into Austria life and culture.

Out & About in the Salzkammergut August 5, 2010

I would like to share with you some tips for eating out in the Bad Goisern / Bad Ischl area, these are some places which we have enjoyed and would recommend.

Eating out for vegetarians can be a bit of a challenge, those Kaes Spaetzle, (a delicious kind of home-made pasta is usually an option, accompanied with a green salad), or baked Camembert with cranberries. Austrian food is neither light nor contemporary in its style. However, if you are out biking or hiking all day, you will welcome the generous portions!

1. Post am See – Grundlsee

http://www.postamsee.com/

In 2006, this husband and wife team won the Gault Millau – 2 star award, well worth a visit.

2. Umenko – Bad Ischl

http://www.umeko.at/

This is a pan Asian restaurant based on the outskirts of Bad Ischl. They offer an ‘all your can eat’ buffet at lunchtime and offer food from China and Thailand – including Dim Sum. This makes a nice change if you are ‘schnitzled out’. The service can be a bit uncharismatic, but the view from the restaurant is fabulous and the food good for value and tasty.

3. Mary’s Weinstadl – Bad Goisern

This is a small tavern with seating outdoors, which regularly hosts live folk music sessions. It is located near the station in Bad Goisern. The specialty or ribs or ‘Rippchen’ – which must be ordered in advance.

Marianne Aschauer
Near the Station
4822 Bad Goisern,

Tel.: +43 (6135)8266 (English spoken)

4. Hotel Scalaria – Lake Wolfgang

Another live music venue is Hotel Scalaria at Lake Wolfgang, which hosts the annual ‘Shake the Lake’ concert series:

http://www.richieloidl.at/gigs_dates_rl.html

5. Markets

Bad Ischl – Every Friday morning

If you prefer to cook at home, then there is an excellent, (though pricey) farmer’s market in Bad Ischl every Friday, (8 am – 12). This attracts local farmers and also people who import delicacies from further afield such as Italy. It is a fun experience and worth stocking up for the weekend.

Friday is also the day when the residents of Bad Ischl done their national dress, so watch out for the strapping men in lederhosen and ladies in the pretty and feminine Dirndls. If you feel inspired to buy an outfit yourself, visit the Lodenfrey outlet in Bad Ischl.

Childrens’ Activities

In the hot weather, children may enjoy visiting the Parkbad in the middle of Bad Goisern. It has an outdoor swimming pool and a water slide. There is also lovely to walk along the river and where you can see the ducks swimming in the clear waters and see the odd fisherman angling. Near the hotel, Goiserer Muehle there is also an outdoor childrens’ playground.

Parkbad http://www.salzkammergut.at/e/4-12-2-100271327/detail/Parkbad_Goisern_Hallstaettersee.html

Bad Ischl…alles Kaiser. August 1, 2010

Bad Ischl is about 20 minutes drive from Haus Mirabelle and is a small spa town, apotheosised by the Kaiser Franz Josef as his beloved summer retreat. 35,000 visitors flock each year to tiny Bad Ischl, whose tourist machine lives on imperial nostalgia and the thermal baths, where many elderly people still come to take the curative waters.

Bad Ischl is bijoux and chocolate box in appearance, painted in the imperial yellow, black and dark green. Whilst the town has tried to rejuvenate its image, the main focus is still the royal appeal, with the whole town celebrating the Kaiser’s Birthday every August, decking the streets with red carpet. There are a few sights to see in Bad Ischl, such as the city museum, the Kaiser Villa, the thermal baths, (which offer an excellent day spa service) – though the main attraction is soaking in the romantic atmosphere of this small but perfectly formed little town.

Another feted inhabitant of Bad Ischl, was Franz Lehar, the composer of the operetta, The Merry Widow, (amongst other works). Every summer, there is a Lehar festival, celebrating his works as well as many year long performances at the ‘Kurhaus’ concert hall.

No visit to Bad Ischl is complete without a visit to the legendary patisserie – ‘Zauner’, which supplied the Kaiser with his favourite pastries. There are 2 Zauner cafes in Bad Ischl, offering coffee and cakes and excellent light snacks and meals. The café produces over 200 different types of cake and have a specially dedicated ‘strudel’ kitchen, all of which are excellent.

My favourite pastime in the summer is to have an early dinner on the Esplanade at Zauner, (the menu is traditionally Austrian) and imagine how the 22 year old King seduced his 16 year old bride, Sissy, in this delightful spot by the river Traun.

Perhaps a more contemporary place to enjoy cocktails and a light snack is the K.u.K – Hofbeisl, also in the centre of town. It has consistently won the best bartender of the year award in Austria and appeals to a younger, hipper crowd.

For those who are more interested in eating a good Argentinean steak, the station restaurant provides unbelievably good steaks – an odd location perhaps but reportedly excellent fare.