Bad Ischl is about 20 minutes drive from Haus Mirabelle and is a small spa town, apotheosised by the Kaiser Franz Josef as his beloved summer retreat. 35,000 visitors flock each year to tiny Bad Ischl, whose tourist machine lives on imperial nostalgia and the thermal baths, where many elderly people still come to take the curative waters.
Bad Ischl is bijoux and chocolate box in appearance, painted in the imperial yellow, black and dark green. Whilst the town has tried to rejuvenate its image, the main focus is still the royal appeal, with the whole town celebrating the Kaiser’s Birthday every August, decking the streets with red carpet. There are a few sights to see in Bad Ischl, such as the city museum, the Kaiser Villa, the thermal baths, (which offer an excellent day spa service) – though the main attraction is soaking in the romantic atmosphere of this small but perfectly formed little town.
Another feted inhabitant of Bad Ischl, was Franz Lehar, the composer of the operetta, The Merry Widow, (amongst other works). Every summer, there is a Lehar festival, celebrating his works as well as many year long performances at the ‘Kurhaus’ concert hall.
No visit to Bad Ischl is complete without a visit to the legendary patisserie – ‘Zauner’, which supplied the Kaiser with his favourite pastries. There are 2 Zauner cafes in Bad Ischl, offering coffee and cakes and excellent light snacks and meals. The café produces over 200 different types of cake and have a specially dedicated ‘strudel’ kitchen, all of which are excellent.
My favourite pastime in the summer is to have an early dinner on the Esplanade at Zauner, (the menu is traditionally Austrian) and imagine how the 22 year old King seduced his 16 year old bride, Sissy, in this delightful spot by the river Traun.
Perhaps a more contemporary place to enjoy cocktails and a light snack is the K.u.K – Hofbeisl, also in the centre of town. It has consistently won the best bartender of the year award in Austria and appeals to a younger, hipper crowd.
For those who are more interested in eating a good Argentinean steak, the station restaurant provides unbelievably good steaks – an odd location perhaps but reportedly excellent fare.
